Puppy Care Suggestions

Caring for a new puppy can be easy with just a few little tips.  For those of us who have done it for a long time, it is second nature.  But with a few suggestions to get started, you will have the confidence to help your puppy develope into a healthy dog.  These are just suggestions that work in my yard,  you can be creative and alter these ideas to suit your situation.  If you ever have any suggestions that you would like to share with others, please feel free to send them to me to post on this page. 

Check out the bottom 2 sections about your puppy's first week home... it is very important.

Feeding your puppy

Taking care of animals isnt rocket science.  And is not as difficult as manufactures and vets and people who dont raise animals would have you think.  These animals were created by God in perfect design to take care of themselves.  Our position is just to see that our little pets are as happy and healthy as possible while in our care. So for the sake of a diet motto... we should logically try to get as close to what they would eat in the wild as possible.  Think about what a dog would eat with no human intervention.  Dosent paint a pretty picture does it?  So lets just modify it a little and see what happens.

Feeding your puppy is not a huge chore, it isnt difficult, but it is an important part of daily life.  There are as many different diet suggestions as there are dogs, and developing a routine is all that is required.  Treat them as if they were your children.  The best diet for your new puppy is the one that the breeder has him on from weaning.  It is best to continue that feeding program until he settles in his new home and new routine. Generally the first month. Then consider altering his diet to suit you and him, and experimenting is okay with common sense.  Once your puppy is past that tiny baby stage, you and he should be in a routine that will allow any modification as he matures. 

  First, we keed our puppies processed puppy food just for the conveniance of the new owners.  Not everyone understands the diet, and this is the easiest way.  Manufactured animal foods were created for the human convenience for feeding a domesticated animal.  It kept us from having to go out and gather from nature what they would normally eat.  So because we were looking for easy ways to care for them, it is just common practice to feel that store bought foods are best.  Nothing could be farther from the truth.  If you choose a low end dog food, you may need to include in your dog's diet some "real" foods, along with his staple of dry dog food.  (Keeping in mind that not all "low end" dog foods are bad, they are just made for different feeding purposes.)  Just like we do, a mix diet of natural foods and dry foods (rather than soley the processed foods) are always the healthy choice.  Any processed food is made with additives and preservatives that arent part of their natural diet. So dont buy into that nonsense about only feeding one brand, never changing it, and never feeding table scraps or real food.  Who is to benefit from that one... yep the vets and the food manufacturers.  That is just a way for the feed industry to make money. While giving your vet the opportunity to be lazy by not taking the time to explain a dog's natural diet, along with what not to feed them.  Or perhaps diet is not in his skill level.  Use common sense, if it contains preservatives, and items that a dog wouldnt normally eat in nature, it shouldnt be his only and staple diet.  Like us, those preservatives take a toll on our bodies.

Dry food seems to be quick and easiest to feed, and is the most popular so I will focus on that for now.  Keep in mind we are feeding schnauzers, other breeds may have different protein and fat requirements. It is more important that he is eating, than what brand he is eating.  Schnauzers are a high energy dog that do not require a high protein to transform into energy, so high fat and protein are not necessary.  Puppy food is only needed until about 3-6 months of age, and adult maintenance is what I feed after that.  Try to find a food that is meat based, and has the least amount of grain or unnecessary ingredients.  A small bag for trial is always best.  Meat, meat by product or bone meal for example should be the first ingredient listed.  Most dry foods will have corn, try to avoid excessive amounts of corn, or barley and wheat, they are just unhealthy fattening fillers.  Rice is okay, still not my favorite as it is very starchy and fattening.  As you can tell, I dont like an over weight dog.  If your dog dosent have a high energy job, he dosent need a high energy food.   And just because it is expensive dosent mean that it is the best choice.  Most of those foods are the same as another brand and they market them as a high end dog food.  Ingredients are ingredients, thats how you choose.  And a good brand says...its all about the poop.  If the poo looks hard and small and dosent have an offensive odor within 7 days of changing, its a good dog food for your dog.

Add vitamins as a supplement when your puppy is young if you are concerned he is not getting the nutrient requirement he needs.  Most healthy dogs will not need them, and in the wild not even get to eat every day.  Trust me they can handle it.  That growing stage is the most important before puppy vaccinations are finished. As an adult will only require a low maintenance of protein for good health.  We feed Pro Pac mini adult chunks, or Pro Pac Puppy Performance.

 In the beginning a puppy's baby teeth are not completely in until about 8-12 weeks.  Some dry dog foods are too hard for them to eat.  But soaking them with water or milk is not the answer.  That only keeps the puppy from working his teeth in properly.  Rather than soaking the kibbles, break the bites down to a size that he can get into his mouth easily, chew on it, and can swallow easily without choking.  Or purchase a brand that has a kibble that seems to fit him properly.  Buy small bags to start with until you have found the brand that works best for him.  Anything that you dont use, donate it to your local pet shelter or vet who boards pets.  Enzymes to break down food for humans is in the mouth, so extra chewing is required.  But for dogs it is in their stomach, so they will not waste time chewing their food and prefer to swallow it in chunks.  It is okay for your puppy to do the same. 

 Use common sense when feeding your puppy or dog real natural products.  Dont worry about what is politically correct as far as table scraps.  If they can eat something in nature without human intervention, then God probably made their bodies to withstand it.  My grandfather fed his dogs what was left over from the dinner table, and they lived long and healthy lives.  Just use common sense.  My dogs love baked sweet potato, eggs, vanilla yogurt, cottage cheese, raw baby carrots, any squash, peeled and de-seeded apples or apple sauce, bananas, and left over rice with meat gravy.... just to name a few.  They love broccoli rice casserole!  And the list can be endless.  And of course any meat left overs and pasta, minus the cooked bone.  They love cereal without sugar as a snack, animal cookies, and goldfish crackers.  Your dog may have a taste for some other things that will be just as fine for him as well.  Check with a list of toxic foods for dogs if you have a concern. 

Avoid the obvious, not good to feed any type of peppers, onion, raw tomatoes (cooked dosent seem to bother them), no dorito chips to get stuck in their gums, or popcorn to stick in their throats. Try to avoid sugar as much as possible, its not any better for them than it is for us.   Dont feed cooked bones, raw seems to work okay and does not splinter.  But I prefer gristle type bones such as the neck or wing tips.  Or very large bone such as seven steak bones.  Schnauzers seem to have a thing for paper products, so dont let them get into the trash to pull out toilet paper, paper towels or newspaper.  Also be very careful of dental floss in the bath trash can, that will be very hazardous and they can die from that string being in their intestine system if unable to remove it. 

 Again, just use common sense and your dog can enjoy almost as many food items as you can.

Grooming Requirements

 Above is a photo of the tools I use most often.  Most puppies require very little grooming in the beginning.  Just a little light brushing every now and then to get them used to the routine.  I use a metal tined brush that have safety nobs on the ends.  And a metal comb that has two different teeth widths.  Matt spots are under the arms, on the flanks (side of the hips), inside the back legs and chest.  Using the comb on its end, or a letter opener, you can easily break a matt in half and can work it out a few hairs at at time.  I always hold the hair at the skin so as not to pull the matt, they dont like their hair pulled just like we dont.

Ear cleaning is probably the most important groom for the schnauzer.  Dogs that have hair that grow inside the ear canal need to be watched.  Pull the hair from inside the base of the ear with your fingernails, or hemostats.  Frequent checks will avoid a long session of something that can be uncomfortable if done for more than a minute of two. Q-tip out their ears about once a week if spending a lot of time outside, especially if they are cropped.  Once a month is fine is primarily inside.  Pour an ear cleaning solution (from your vet or pet store) into the ear canal and massage the base of the ear for a moment.  Do this outside and allow the puppy to shake the ears free of excess cleaner. You can pour a capful of peroxide/rubbing alcohol mix if you have no ear cleanser. Use a soft cloth, tissue or q-tip to swab inside the ear.  Takes about 1 minute to do and will prevent debre build up or ear infection.

Nails grow very fast when they are young, but will slow when they mature.  Trim only the tips of the nails to dull them, dont try to cut them short.  That will only give the opportunity to quick them which isnt necessary.  Once you have quicked them,  they will not be as receptive to allowing you to trim them in the future.  And you will have to earn their trust again. You only need to keep them from snagging your clothes, or trapping themselves on the carpet. 

  Frequent baths with soap are not necessary, and frankly not good for their skin.  They need the oils in their skin for protection, and shampoo removes that.  If their feet get dirty, rinse them in tepid tap plain water.  That can be done as often as you like.  If they have dirt, or something easily removed in their body coat, rinse them with plain water.  I only use shampoo when they have something on them that wont come off with plain water, or if they smell like a nasty dog.  I dont like sleeping with a smelly dog.  They also make doggie perfumes that are okay to use between bathing.  Read instructions and avoid the eyes.  I use body sprays from the dollar store, Baby shampoo, q-tips and ear cleanser or peroxide, ear powder, and a brush and comb.  The nail trimmer I use are the small blunt scissor type.  Teaching your puppy to behave on a table is a good idea.  It will help the groomer do a good safe job if your puppy is well behaved.

 If you want to trim your dog yourself, it is easy to do.  Just be patient, the first few cuts may not be as good as youd like.  But with a little practice you can do as good of a job as anyone.  I use a dual speed Andis brand clipper, and only use a #10 detachable blade.  I rarely nick my dog with that blade length.  Always trim in the direction the hair grows, and you will never nick your dog.  I am not a professional groomer, but anytime you would like tips on trimming, feel free to call me.  I will be happy to help.

Puppy Proofing Your Home

There are as many items in a home and home layouts as there are people.  So covering every possible scenerio will be virtually impossible.  Again in trying to make a safe place for your puppy to grow up, using common sense is a must.

 Though the dog in this photo likes to take naps, it is because she love to play as well.  They are very intellegent and need stimulation.  Giving them an outlet for their mind, and lots of playtime, and that should keep them from getting into too much trouble.  As bad behavior in dogs is largely due to boredom, not the lack of ability to be trained.

 Picture what your puppy sees from his eye level.  Learn what puppies think about and their natural reactions to their surroundings.  They are just a baby dog, and do not know anything yet.  Their only thoughts are to play, eat, sleep and poop.  And they can still be frightened as well.  Play covers a large area of their time, and that is where they learn most of their social behavior.  They have no hands, so everything goes in the mouth.  Unfortunately if they get something lodged in their mouth, they have no way to get it out, their natural reation is to try to get it to go in.  Imagine some things in your house that you would not want going in your puppy's throat or tummy.  My children always heard this motto... "if it is on the floor, it is fair game for puppies."  And that means anything that they can reach from a coffee table or under the sofa.  And every piece of clothing or toy on your childs floor is also his toy. They are a lot more intellegent than you would think and do have a thought process just like your children.  They can learn concepts that would amaze you.  And believe me, they can figure out anything, only thing that holds them back sometimes is that they have no opposing digits.  That dosent stop our older ones from figuring out almost any kind of latch but a round door knob. So just like your children, be careful what you let them see. 

Dental floss, or strings, cleaning products, glass or plastic products that can be chewed or broken.  No hard corn chips or popcorn, they stick in gums and can damage the throat.  Boxes or containers that they can get their heads stuck in.  Plastic bags that they can get their heads stuck in, or piece in the throat.  Anything that they should not get behind such as a refridgerator or free standing stove, block it.  No exposed electrical wires!  That one is just down right expensive.    Make sure that your yard does not have anyway to get under your house or porch, anywhere that you cannot reach him if necessary.  Check the fence line for any breaks or holes that he can fit through.  Take him for a walk and give him the oppertunity to find them while you are watching.  And remember, stray cats will come in your yard, children passing by will throw things in your yard.  If that is a place your dog spends a lot of time, keep it inspected for new items.  He will notice anything that has changed in his territory in an instant.  That is his job.

  Keeping your puppy in a confined area of the home while you are away is a very good idea.  There is always a bathroom, or laundry room or kitchen.  Or just a crate or puppy excersize pen set up anywhere.  He may not be happy about it at first, but will adjust to the routine soon and wait patiently for you to return. 

 If you think of something that I have not suggested, please feel free to do so.  Others can benefit from your experience, and I do not know it all yet either.  I learn something new every day!

Importance of Vaccinations and Vet Care

One of the most important things you can do for your puppy is to make sure he recieves his series of baby shots.  If you live in town, he will be exposed to so many puppy diseases while he is growing and will need to develope a strong immune system.  These puppy vaccinations need to be in the body for a period of 9-15 weeks during the series and need to be given no later than 14-21 days apart.  These are usually a series of 3-4 puppy shots, a bordetella vaccination, then his first rabies about 4-6 months.  Then you will only need a bordetella booster given yearly if he is to be boreded regularly or shown, and a rabies vaccination every 3 years.  Your city may require you to give it yearly. It isnt necessary and is designed to be given at the frist 6 months of age, then the next year, and 3 years after that.  Any more frequently than that is just not necessary and can cause a sever reaction.  Your town may require you show PROOF of your vaccination (that is good for 3 years), and not necessarilty GIVEN yearly.  Some vets will suggest a puppy booster each year for the first few years if you live in a large populated area.  I dont feel it necessary, and only give it if I feel that particular dog will be traveling.  But every area has its common diseases that may be an issue, use your own judgement on that one.

Also important products to give your puppy is a protection for intestinal worms, heartworms, fleas and tics.  But keep in mind they are poisons, and do not need to be used at every season of the year. Some brands I use are  monthly Revolution or Advantix spot on for heartworms, fleas and ticks.  Revolution also prevents ear mites, and Advantix K9 also prevents mosquitoes.  But again, I only use them if it is necessary, not monthly as suggested by the people who make money from them.  And natural remedies are always a good idea to try first.  They have new brands out now that will do everything, but I have not used them.  Just be aware if your pet shows signs of a reaction, or change in behavior such as eating habits, fever and energy level after giving any new product.  Some products are over kill, and your dog can have a reaction to the poisons in them.    Again, always use common sense, dont go with political correctness. Most companies tell you to use a product more often than necessary because thats how they make money.   Less is usually more in my opinion, and I only use these types of products if/when I need them.

Be sure to take your puppy to the vet within the first few days of recieving him.  Have your vet check him out, and give him the vaccination record from the breeder.  That way he can see when to continue the schedule for series of vaccinations and dewormings, and he can schedule the next visit at that time. 

Some things that you will need vet care for regularly are yearly vaccinations, spay/neuter, and teeth cleening.  Most vets spay at about 6 months of age, and I have teeth proffessionaly cleaned first at about 2-3 years of age, then every other year after that. Taking care of your dogs teeth may prolong his life.

Some things you can do... You can brush your dogs teeth on occassion (once a month or weekly) with a baking soda type toothpaste with no sugar if possible.  At least perform a regular inspection to make sure there is nothing lodged in the gums.  These are available at your dollar store, walmart or grocer.  Dog brands seem a little pricey to me for the same thing I can get at the drugstore.   Dogs chew on anything, and getting something lodged is always a possibility.  If he has a strange breath smell, that is a good indication of a gum infection usually due to needing teeth cleaned or from something lodged in the gums.  Look in your dogs mouth whenever you get a chance. Getting him used to that on a regular basis only helps everyone who is involved in caring for your pet.  Watching to see that baby teeth come out on time is a good idea.  Any baby teeth retained after 12 mo of age should be removed by your vet.

It is nice these days that we have the opertunity to take our pets to a specialized doctor.  Great strides have been made in veternary care over the last couple of decades.  But there are still things your vet does not know.  Keep in mind that his training is clinical, very few vets raise any type of animal, only treating the ones that come in his office.  His suggestions are just that, suggestions.  With that said, no one knows more about raising your puppy and daily care than the breeder.  If you have a question about your puppy in any way, Im sure that your breeder will be happy to give you suggestions and help you continue the best care of your dog.  That is what they do every day.  And not asking a question when you have one could be life threatening to your puppy.  And if vet care is necessary, that will be suggested by the breeder as well. Dogs are a mammal body like we are.  There are many things that can be taken care of at home.  And your breeder can surely suggest to you things that have worked for them.

  You can medicate your dog with common household remedies.  If he is a small breed and has an upset tummy, 1-5 ccs of keopectate or Peptobismol works great.  Diarhea can be easily controled with Keopectate or a couple of doses of Baby Imodium, approx 1cc per up to 5 lbs of body weight, follow label daily dosing suggestions.  If he has an alergic reaction to something like bug bites or plants or something that he has eaten, perhaps a reaction to a baby shot, or a little stuffy nose sniffle... 1/2 - 1 cc per 5 lbs of body weight of childrens Benedry works great.   If he has a cough, childs cough supressant or expectorant works for them as well.  Couph supressant 12 hour is a good one for that too.  No aspirin, or tylenol or any other fever reducer unless suggested by your vet. 

 Basically my point is that there are a lot of things you can do for your pet that are common sense.  Dont waste time and money at your vet for something that you can do immediately, that only stresses you and your animal.  If you are unsure of a product you intend to use, call someone and ask.  I personally will be happy to help you.  Your vet should be willing to help you as well, your breeder should be willing to help you, or the number on the product label you intend to use is also a good place to call. 

One more thing I get asked about is ...

THE SCOOP ON PUPPIES EATING POOP....

http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_PoopEating.php

I am usually always here.  Please feel free to call me anytime.  Even if I did you didnt adopt a puppy form us, I will be more than happy to be a second opinion.  We spend a lot of time outside, so please leave a message and I will call you as soon as possible.  580-587-2412 or 580-540-6434

Your Puppy's First Week Home

The first week home is usually the hardest period for a puppy's transition.  The first issue is that he will be a little nervous.  Lots of hugs and kisses will help him learn that you are his new security blanket.  Dont forget to start your puppy right off on your routine.  He will learn quickly and feel at home in no time.  If he is afraid of something, carry him around it and talk to him until he gets used to it.  He will watch you, see your not afraid and then be ready to go on to the next learning phase.

  Immunity issues...He was most likely raised in an environment by someone that takes care of dogs/puppies every day.  We already know what things to avoid, have sanitary routines, and know what signs to watch for if there is a problem (and usually how to treat them as well).  There are a few things to to watch for to help him through his first week. 

  Know that your baby is still very young and his immune system is still developing.  Puppies most fragile stage of developement is before 12 weeks of age.  He will have come from a home or kennel that has one unique set of bacteria, cleaning products, water system, and outside plant material that he is exposed to.  He will be fine in his birth home because he is used to all of those elements.  But all of those things will be different in his new home and his little body will have to adjust to them.  All of a sudden, the water is different, the smells are different, and the bacteria in your house is different than ours.  Think of it like you going to Mexico and drinking the water.  They also will travel around on their first day or two, that is sometimes unavoidable.  It is very easy for them to pick up a little unseen bug and bring it home with him.   In the meantime, their immune defense lowers due to stress of moving, and a little bacteria can cause a big problem.  It is usually something that can be taken care of easily if detected early and treated.  The most common sign of an internal warfare is their stool will change, or become soft or discolored.  Many times it is something that can work its way out of the body naturally.  Its amazing how well the body has the ability to purge and heal itself.   Very common, but should only last a few days.

  If more than a few days, it could be... Common bacterias in a home such as E.Coli for example, and there are several common strains.  Even the bacteria and chemicals in your water system will be different.  Also they can pick up an intestinal protazoa such as Coccidia or Ghiardia that can within 24-48 hours cause a nasty diarhea problem.  That will be found in your yard, home, park, or vet's office. ( I wonder how often they sanitize the door handle?  After every customer? doubtful)  As well as exposure to your current pet.  It is easy to treat if you take care of it as soon as you notice there is a problem.  Once they have been exposed to most of these issues, their bodies will automatically build a resistance to them for the future.  And will grow stronger every day, thats how the bodies immune system works. 

Some more severe things to watch for are... lethargy, lack of appetite, and persistant vomitting. DO NOT force feed your puppy until you have diagnosed the problem!  A dogs nature is to gobble everything it wants.  If it is not hungry, there is a tummy problem and it is uncomfortable to eat.  Forcing it to eat is not the answer.  He will need to be diagnosed, and treated and will eat on his own when the problem is controlled.  Make sure your puppy is drinking plenty of water to combat dehydration until a diagnosis is established.

For those of you who think that Hypoglycemia is a breed condition, it is NOT.  Hypoglycemia is a term used for the low level of blood sugar in the body.  It is a condition caused by malnutrition or lack of food and is considered abuse or neglect.  It is not hereditary, though it is a common problem for your small breed puppy.  If your vet tells you that your puppy died from Hypoglycemia, know that your puppy was sick and you neglected to make it well until it was too late.  Or that he didnt know either what the problem was.  That condition is not guaranteed by ANY breeder, and will not be a valid reason to blame your breeder for the puppy's death or vet bill.  It is your responsibility to watch for tell tale signs that your puppy is sick... not wanting to eat is a HUGE sign!  Call your breeder and ask what the problem could be. Most breeders will be eager to help you take the best care possible of your/their puppy.

Check out some other suggestions in the article below.  And feel free to call us if you ever have any questions.  Even if you did not adopt your puppy from us, we will always be eager to help you.  580-540-6434

***  Dont for get that household and garden plants can also be toxic to dogs.  They are like little children and everything goes in their mouths.  Look over these suggestions of toxic plants below.  If your puppy or dog becomes ill and you cant find a reason for it, check your home or yard for some of these varieties.  You will be amazed at this list.  Here are a few examples...