Puppy Care Suggestions

Caring for a new puppy can be easy with just a few little tips.  For those of us who have done it for a long time, it is second nature.  But with a few suggestions to get started, you will have the confidence to help your puppy develope into a healthy dog.  These are just suggestions that work in my yard,  you can be creative and alter these ideas to suit your situation.  If you ever have any suggestions that you would like to share with others, please feel free to send them to me to post on this page. 

Check out the bottom 2 sections about your puppy's first week home... it is very important.

Feeding your puppy

Feeding your puppy is not a huge chore, but it is an important one.  There are as many different diets as there are dogs.  The best diet for your new puppy is the one that the breeder has him on from weaning.  It is best to continue that feeding program and schedule until your puppy reaches the teen or pre adult stage.  Once your puppy is past that tiny baby stage, feel free to alter his diet to suit you and him. 

Dry food seems to be the easiest to feed, and is the most popular, so I will focus on that for now.  And I am feeding schnauzers, other breeds may have different protein requirements. It is more important that he is eating, than what brand he is eating.  Schnauzers do not need a high protien to be healthy.  So high performance is not necessary.  Puppy food is only needed until about 3-6 months of age, and mainetenance is what I feed after that.  Try to find a food that is meat based, and has the least amount of grain and fat.  Meat, meat by product or bone meal should be the first ingredient listed.  Most dry foods will have corn, that is unavoidable.  But try to avoid excessive amounts of corn, wheat or barley, they are fattening fillers.  Rice is okay, still not my favorite as it is very starchy and fattening.  As you can tell, I dont like an over weight dog.  If your dog dosent have a high energy job, he dosent need a high energy food.   And just becasue it is expensive dosent mean that it is the best choice.  Most of those foods are the same as another brand and they market them as a high end dog food.  Ingredients are ingredients, thats how you choose.  Add vitamins as a suppliment when your puppy is young if you are concerned.  Most healthy dogs will not need them.  That growing stage is the most important before puppy vaccinations are finished. As an adult will only require a low maintenance of protein for good health.

 In the beginning a puppy's baby teeth are not completely in until about 8-12 weeks.  Some dry dog foods are too hard for them to eat.  But soaking them with water or milk is not the answer.  That only keeps the puppy from working his teeth in properly.  Rather than soaking the kibbles, break the bites down to a size that he can get into his mouth easily, chew on it, and can swallow easily.  Or purchase a brand that has a kibble that seems to fit him properly.  Buy small bags to start until you have found trhe brand that works best for him.  Anything that you dont use, donate it to your local pet shelter.  Enzymes to break down food for humans is in the mouth, so extra chewing is required.  But for dogs it is in their stomach, so they will not waste time chewing their food and prefer to swallow it in chunks.  It is okay for your puppy to do the same.  Just make sure that the kibble is small enough that he can swallow it without choking.

 Use common sense when feeding your puppy or dog natural products.  Dont worry about what is politically correct as far as table scraps.  If they eat something in nature without human intervention, then God probably made their bodies to withstand it.  My grandfather fed his dogs what was left over from the dinner table, and they lived long and healthy lives.  Just use common sense.  My dogs love baked sweet potatoe, raw baby carrots, squash, peeled and de-seeded aples, bananas, and left over rice with meat gravy.  And of course any meat.  Your dog may have a taste for some other things that will be just as fine for him as well.  Check with a list of toxic foods for dogs before trying anything else. 

Obviously it will not be good to feed Jalapenos or any type of peppers, onion, raw tomatoes (cooked dosent seem to bother them), no dorito chips to get stuck in their gums, or popcorn.  Schnauzers seem to have a thing for paper products, so dont let them get into the trash to pull out toilet paper, paper towels or newspaper.  ALso be very careful of dental floss in the trash can, that will be very hazzardous and they can die from that string being in their system if unable to remove it.  Again, just use common sense.

Grooming Requirements

 Most puppies require very little grooming in the beginning.  Just a little light brushing every now and then to get them used to the routine.  I use a metal tined brush that have safelty nobs on the ends.  And a metal comb that has two different teeth widths.  Matt spots are under the arms, on the side of the hips, and chest.  Using the comb on its end, you can easily break a matt in half and can work it out a few hairs at at time.

Ear cleaning is probably the mst important groom for the schnauzer.  Dogs that have hair that grow inside the ear canal need to be watched.  Pull the hair from inside the base of the ear with your fingernails, or hemostats.  Frequent checks will avoid a long session of something that can be uncomfortable if done for more than a minute of two. Q-tip out their ears about once a week, expecially if they are cropped.  Pour an ear cleaning solution (from your vet or pet store) into the ear canal and massage the base of the ear for a moment.  Do this outside and allow the puppy to shake the ears free of excess cleaner. You can pour a capful of peroxide in if you have no ear cleanser. Use a soft cloth, tissue or q-tip to swab inside the ear.  Takes about 1 minute to do and will prevent debre build up or ear infection.

Nails grow very fast when they are young, but will slow when they mature.  Trim only the tips of the nails to dull them, dont try to cut them short.  hat will only give the opertunity to quick them.  Once you have quicked them, they will not be as receptive to allowing you to trim them in the future.  You only need to keep them from snagging your clothes, or trapping themselves on the carpet. 

  Frequent baths with soap are not necessary, and frankly not good for them.  They need the oils in their skin for protection, and shampoo removes that.  If their feet get dirty, rinse them in tepid tap water.  That can be done as ofeten as you like.  If they have dirt, or something easily removed in their body coat, rinse them with plain water.  I only use shapmoo when they have something on them that wont come off with plain water, or if they smell like a wet dog.  I dont like sleeping with a smelly dog.  They also make doggie perfumes that are okay to use between bathing.  Read instructions and avoid the eyes.  I use body sprays from the dollar store, Baby shampoo, q-tips and ear cleanser or peroxide, and a brush and comb.  The nail trimmer I use are the small blunt scissor type.

Puppy Proofing Your Home

There are as many items in a home and home layouts as there are people.  So covering every possible scenerio will be virtually impossible.  Again in trying to make a safe place for your puppy to grow up, using common sense is a must.

 Though the dog in this photo likes to take naps, it is because she love to play as well.  They are very intellegent and need stimulation.  Giving them an outlet for their mind, and lots of playtime, and that should keep them from getting into too much trouble.  As bad behavior in dogs is largely due to boredom, not the lack of ability to be trained.

 Picture what your puppy sees from his eye level.  Learn what puppies think about and their natural reactions to their surroundings.  They are just a baby dog, and do not know anything yet.  Their only thoughts are to play, eat, sleep and poop.  And they can still be frightened as well.  Play covers a large area of their time, and that is where they learn most of their social behavior.  They have no hands, so everything goes in the mouth.  Unfortunately if they get something lodged in their mouth, they have no way to get it out, their natural reation is to try to get it to go in.  Imagine some things in your house that you would not want going in your puppy's throat or tummy.  My children always heard this motto... "if it is on the floor, it is fair game for puppies."  And that means anything that they can reach from a coffee table or under the sofa.  And every piece of clothing or toy on your childs floor is also his toy. They are a lot more intellegent than you would think and do have a thought process just like your children.  They can learn concepts that would amaze you.  And believe me, they can figure out anything, only thing that holds them back sometimes is that they have no opposing digits.  That dosent stop our older ones from figuring out almost any kind of latch but a round door knob. So just like your children, be careful what you let them see. 

Dental floss, or strings, cleaning products, glass or plastic products that can be chewed or broken.  No hard corn chips or popcorn, they stick in gums and can damage the throat.  Boxes or containers that they can get their heads stuck in.  Plastic bags that they can get their heads stuck in, or piece in the throat.  Anything that they should not get behind such as a refridgerator or free standing stove, block it.  No exposed electrical wires!  That one is just down right expensive.    Make sure that your yard does not have anyway to get under your house or porch, anywhere that you cannot reach him if necessary.  Check the fence line for any breaks or holes that he can fit through.  Take him for a walk and give him the oppertunity to find them while you are watching.  And remember, stray cats will come in your yard, children passing by will throw things in your yard.  If that is a place your dog spends a lot of time, keep it inspected for new items.  He will notice anything that has changed in his territory in an instant.  That is his job.

  Keeping your puppy in a confined area of the home while you are away is a very good idea.  There is always a bathroom, or laundry room or kitchen.  Or just a crate or puppy excersize pen set up anywhere.  He may not be happy about it at first, but will adjust to the routine soon and wait patiently for you to return. 

 If you think of something that I have not suggested, please feel free to do so.  Others can benefit from your experience, and I do not know it all yet either.  I learn something new every day!

Importance of Vaccinations and Vet Care

One of the most important things you can do for your puppy is to make sure he recieves his series of baby shots.  If you live in town, he will be exposed to so many puppy diseases while he is growing and will need to develope a strong immune system.  These puppy vaccinations need to be in the body for a period of 9-15 weeks during the series and need to be given no later than 14-21 days a part.  These are usually a series of 3-4 puppy shots, a bordetella vaccination, then his first rabies about 4-6 months.  Then you will only need a bordetella booster given yearly if he is to be boreded regularly or shown, and a rabies vaccination every 3 years.  Your city may require you to give it yearly. It isnt necessary and is designed to be given at the frist 6 months of age, then the next year, and 3 years after that.  Any more frequently than that is just not necessary and is definately over kill.    Some vets will suggest a puppy booster each year for the first few years if you live in a large populated area.  I dont feel it necessary, and never did that.  But every area has its common diseases that may be an issue.

Also important products to give your puppy is a protection for intestinal worms, heartworms, fleas and tics.  I use monthly Revolution spot on for heartworms, intestinal worms, fleas and ticks.  Revolution also prevents ear mites.  They have new brands out now that will do everything, but I have not used them.  Just be aware if your pet shows signs of a reaction, or change in behavior such as eating habits and energy level after giving any new product.  Some products are over kill and your dog can have a reaction to them.  Less is usually more in my opinion. 

Be sure to take your puppy to the vet within the first few days of recieving him.  Have your vet check him out, and give him your vaccination record from the breeder.  That way he can see when to continue the series of vaccinations and dewormings, and he can schedule the next visit. 

It is nice these days that we have the opertunity to take our pets to a specialized doctor.  Great strides have been made in veternary care over the last couple of decades.  There are still things your vet does not know.  Keep in mind that his training is clinical, he does not raise any type of animal, only treat the ones that come in his office.  His suggestions are just that, suggestions.  With that said, no one knows more about raiseing your puppy than the breeder.  If you have a question about your puppy in any way that could be life threatening, Im sure that your breeder will be happy to give you suggestions and help you continue the best care of your dog.  That is what they do every day.  And if vet care is necessary, that will be suggested by them as well. Dogs are the same type of mammal body that we are.  There are many things that can be taken care of at home.  And your breeder can surely suggest to you things that have worked for them.

Some things that you will need vet care for regularly are yearly vaccinations, spay/neuter, and teeth cleening.  Most vets spay at about 6 months of age, and I have teeth cleaned first at about 2-3 years of age and then every other year after that. 

Some things you can do... You can brush your dogs teeth on occassion with a baking soda type toothpaste.  At least a regular inspection to make sure there is nothing lodged in the gums.  Dogs chew on anything, and getting something lodged is always a possibility.  If he has a strange breath smell, that is a good indication of a gum infection usually due to needing teeth cleaned or from something lodged.

  You can medicate your dog with common household remedies.  If he has an upset tummy, 1-2 ccs of keopectate or Peptobismol works great.  Diarhea can be easily controled with a couple of days of Baby Imodium, approx 1cc per up to 5 lbs of body weight.  If he has an alergic reaction to something like bug bites or plants or something that he has eaten, 1 cc per 5 lbs of body weight of childrens Benedry works great.   If he has a cough, childs cough syrup works for them as well.  Couph supressant only, not any other ingredients, and the 12 hour is a good one for that too.  No aspirin, or tylenol unless suggested by your vet, but I avoid them unless the dog has a fevor and then only have used aspirin. 

 Basically my point is that there are a lot of things you can do for your pet that are common sense.  Dont waste time and money at your vet for something that you can do, that only stresses you and your animal.  If you are unsure of a product you intent to use, call someone and ask.  Your vet should be willing to help you, your breeder should be willing to help you, or the number on the product label is also a good place to call. 

I am usually always here.  Please feel free to call me anytime.  Even if I did not sell you a puppy, I will be more than happy to be a second opinion.  We spend a lot of time outsied, so please leave a message.  580-540-6434

Your Puppy's First Week Home

The first week home is usually the hardest period for a puppy's transition.  There are a few things to keep in mind to help him, and to watch for. 

  First, he was most likely raised in a controled and sanitary environment by someone that takes care of dogs/puppies every day.  We already know what things to avoid, have sanitary routines, and know what signs to watch for if there is a probelm (and usually how to treat them if there is a problem). 

  Know that your baby is still very young and his immune system is still developing.  Puppies before 12 weeks of age is the most fragile stage of developement.  He will have come from a home or kennel that has one set of baterial, cleaning products, water system, and outside plant material that he is exposed to.  He will be fine in his birth home, but all of those things will be different in his new home.  All of a sudden, the water is different, the smells are different, and the bacteria in your house is different than ours.  They will travel around on their first day or two, that is sometimes unavoidable.  And in the meantime, their defense lowers due to stress, and a little bacteria can cause a big problem.  It is something that can be taken care of if detected and treated.  Common bacterias in a home are E.Coli for example, and there are several other common strains.  Also they can pick up an intestinal protazoa such as Coccidia or Ghiardia that can within 24-48 hours cause a nasty problem.  That will be found in your yard, home, park, or vet's office. ( I wonder how often they sanitize the door handle?  After every customer?)  As well as exposure to your current pet.  But they are easy to treat if you take care of it as soon as you notice there is a problem.  Once they have been treated for any of these issues, their bodies will automatically build a resistance to it in the future.  And will grow stronger every day. 

Some things to watch for are... lethargy, lack of appetite, and loose stool, and vomitting. DO NOT force feed your puppy until you have diagnosed the problem!  A dogs nature is to gobble everything it wants.  If it is not hungry, there is a tummy problem and it is uncomfortable to eat.  Forcing it to eat is not the answer.  He will need to be diagnosed, and treated and will eat on his own when the problem is controlled.  Make sure your puppy is drinking plenty of water to combat dehydration.

For those of you who thing that Hypoglycemia is a breed condition, it is NOT.  Hypoglycemia is a term used for the low level of blood sugar in the body.  It is a condition caused by malnutrition and is considered abuse or neglect. It is not hereditary, though a common problem if your small breed puppy becomes ill.  If your vet tells you that your puppy died from Hypoglycemia, know that your puppy was sick and you neglected to take it to the vet or make it well until it was too late.  That is not guaranteed by ANY breeder, and will not be a secure reason to blame your breeder for the puppy's death or vet bill.  It is your responsibilty to watch for tell tale signs that your puppy is sick... not wanting to eat is a HUGE sign!

Check out some suggestions in the article to the right. >>>>→